This information on this page is common to all skates. The other installation pages have brand specific info. If you don't see your brand listed (i.e. Riedell), go to the manufacturer that uses a similar shell. For instance, Riedell uses the old CCM shell. If you have the tools and take your time, the install is not hard. Also, any pro shop can do it, although they'd likely charge. It takes me about 40 minutes to do a pair but it might take you longer. If you have problems, phone (416-766-9400) or e-mail me. There are FAQs at the bottom of the page.

2 Overdrive blades, 9 short screws, 3 long screws, 6 t-nuts, 2 clipped t-nuts and install instructions. Call or email me if you don't have these and I'll send out more.

Both Overdrive blades are exactly the same, so either one fits either foot. They're one size fits all. The screws are 6/32 machine thread. The long ones are 1", the short ones 1/2". The T-Nuts are 6/32 three pronged T-nuts, sometimes called Drive-In nuts.



  • Power drill with 5/32 or 4mm bit (Standard rivet size)
  • #1 Philips screwdriver
  • Pliers or nibblers to remove the rivets.





  • Remove laces and insoles.
  • Remove the top two rivets.
  • Position the blade.
  • Drill the middle hole.
  • Attach the blade with screw and nut.
  • Drill the other 2 holes.
  • Attach with screws and nuts.



There shouldn't be any problem here.

Position Overdrive on the boot to determine which rivets must come out. Almost always, it is the top two rivets (A and B, left). The 3 blue holes indicate the new Overdrive holes. The reason the rivets you remove the rivets is so that the blade will lie flat on the boot, and also because the prongs of the rivet inside the boot can get in the way of the t-nuts and make it hard to sink them. Very rarely can you get away with removing just one rivet. Almost never do the rivet holes line up with the Overdrive holes.

With the right tool, it's easy to pry the rivets out. Otherwise it can be trouble. If you're stuck here, any pro shop or shoe repair could do it, likely for free and it will take about 1 minute. I use the pliers in the photo but any tool sharp enough to pry the rivets up will do.

If you've ordered the blade and anticipate trouble here then you can deal with this step now. Go to your pro shop and have them either remove or loosen the rivets. You can play without these two rivets for a short while and this way, when the blades come you can jump straight to the next step.


The reason the rivets can be a problem is that they sink into the plastic of the boot and it's hard for pliers to get a good grip to pull them out. One thing you can do is cut away some of the plastic around the rivet (below, the yellow part) so there is room to for your tool to get in there. For this, any cutting tool will do, from an exacto knife to a Dremel.



Here, you'll have to go to the other install pages that have brand-specific info. Again, all brands use one of only several shells so if your brand isn't listed, just look for the type of shell it has because that's all that matters here.

One thing that is common to all brands is the top-to-bottom positioning. The top of the blade should lie close to the top of the main blade holder. It doesn't have to be exact, but it does help to draw a line on the boot.



Drilling the first hole is the most important step, so take your time. Don't worry if you make a mistake and it is off, because the Overdrive hole is slotted, so you can shift the blade in or out to correct mistakes. If your drilling is off on the top-to-bottom positioning, it doesn't matter.


  • Don't drill all 3 holes at once. Shifting can occur in the drilling process and put one of all of the holes out of line.
  • Instead, drill the first hole, attach the blade and then use it to guide the drill for the other holes.
  • The first hole should be the middle one (unless there's a rivet hole right there, then do the bottom one). It's easier threading the t-nuts on the bottom two holes. Leave the top hole for last.
  • Be careful that the drill bit doesn't drift on the first few turns.
  • Try to drill straight down, at a right angle.


After marking the middle hole, place the drill bit in the middle of the middle hole. Give it a few quick turns and then check to make sure that the drill didn't 'walk'. If everything is ok then drill away. The bit goes through the plastic very easily.

Drill the middle of the middle hole because, since the Overdrive holes are slotted, you can shift the blade in or out for exact positioning. Once the blade is attached by the middle hole, the top and bottom holes will be drilled on the outside edge of the slotted Overdrive hole so that when the blade is hit by the puck (left, red arrows), it won't shift in.


With the middle hole drilled, you'll now attach Overdrive with a screw and nut. With Overdrive attached and in place, it can now act as a guide for the drilling of the other two holes. This makes things a lot easier.

Reminders for screws and T-nuts (see image below).

Step 1- Make sure you have cleaned the hole out with the drill. You don't want bits of stuff getting on the threads, because it can lock the screw and damage it.

Step 2 - Only on the top hole is it a tight fit threading the t-nut.

Step 3- Don't over-tighten here, it can strip the head of the screw or even crack the t-nut. Just get it close to flush with the sole. If you have a hard time sinking the t-nut into the sole, take it out and clip off one of the prongs.

Step 4- When you remove the long screw you can keep a finger on the t-nut so that it doesn't lift from its spot.

Step 5- Again, be careful to thread the screw properly. I thread it slowly with a hand tool. There is no need to over tighten the screws. Give them some torque but the blade isn't going anywhere.



Here I am drilling the bottom hole with the blade on and acting as a guide for my drill. You have to be very careful here that the blade doesn't shift, because it is only attached by one screw, so it can move and throw your drill off. Notice how my thumb is bracing the top of the blade. Also, I'm drilling the outside edge of the Overdrive hole, so the blade won't move when it is hit by the puck. See the explanation on Step 4 if you are unsure of the reason.

The top hole can be the most difficult, because it is a tight fit threading the t-nut onto the screw. Often, the screw sits very close to the side of the boot, and if you have big hands, it can be a real squeeze, but it can be done. I include the two clipped t-nuts this hole (image 1, right). Also, you can redrill the hole at a slight angle for a little more room. If this hole is too much trouble, leave it, and the next time you get your skates sharpened, have them put a rivet in. Overdrive will be fine in the meantime.


When you're done, tighten down the screws, but don't over-tighten them. In a week or two, you might want to tighten them again, because the material in the boot sole will compress. It's a mistake to get distracted by the position of the blade. If it's close to the proper area then you'll be all right. Leave it and focus your efforts on rolling the ankle into the blade. If you’re not feeling the blade then this is the likely what you should practice, especially for moves while down.


If you have problems with the blade shifting in because of the slotted Overdrive holes, what you can do to avoid this is to fill in the pink area (right) of the slotted hole so that it can't shift back. Some customers have used wire, plastic, glue, epoxy, you name it. Almost anything within reach will do.


They're on ok, but they're crooked.

I wouldn't worry about it. As long as the working edge is in the right area you'll be ok. If you're worried, send me a photo,if you can.

The t-nuts sit on top of each other in the boot.

This will happen when the drilling isn't at a right angle. It's a tight fit inside the boot, and if the drilling is off by a bit then the t-nuts can overlap. It isn't a problem and won't affect the blade or the nuts. If it bothers your foot, try a thin slice of foam under the insole.

I had problems and ran out of hardware.

I supply extra screws and nuts just in case, but if you need more, mail me and I'll send them out no charge.

The screw is locked! I can't sink the nut or unscrew it.

If plastic from the drilling gets in the threads and you try to force it through, this will happen. The best thing to do is to cut off the head of the screw. There will be enough room to get pliers under the head of the screw and chop it off. Then, punch the remaining torso into the boot, using a nail or long screw. Be careful threading the next one and make sure the post of the screw is free of stuff.

I stripped a screw head and now I can't turn it.

This can happen with the Philips head screws. What I do is to grab the screw head tightly with pliers and turn it. All you need is a few turns before it's loose, and then you can use the bit to get it out the rest of the way. Drilling off the screw head is the other alternative but that'll take some time.

The short screws aren't long enough.

This was a problem on some skates with the old hardware. I really don't expect it to happen now but you never know. Mail me and I’ll send longer ones. No charge, of course.

I drilled the first hole and it's off.

Leave it and go on to the next one, which should be the bottom one if you started with the middle, or vice versa. Be very careful and get this one right. Attach the blade, screw it down very tightly in the proper position and then do the top hole. Now go back to the hole you missed. Use the blade hole to guide the drill and you’ll get it now.

I drilled the first two holes and they're off.

Same procedure as above except it’s the top hole that you’ll have to get right. Attach the blade as above and go back to the holes you missed. I would choose to go for the hole that is out the most because it will have more undrilled boot for the bit to bite into. Be careful during the drilling that the blade doesn’t shift. Drilling half a hole is awkward so it’ll take some time. Once you’ve got it, do the same with the other hole.

I drilled 3 holes, they're all off.

This isn’t likely to happen but mark a hole where it should be and drill carefully. If you don’t want to drill freehand then attach the blade by one of the bad holes. Remember that you’ll have to punch out this t-nut later to re-drill this hole. Set a blade hole over where a hole should be. This will act as a guide for the drill. Get the hole right, remove the blade and the t-nut you put in, attach the blade by the good hole you just drilled and carry on as above.

I stripped a t-nut and can't get it out.

If you got the screw out and now have to remove the nut, insert the long screw, give it a half turn to grab the nut and hit the screw head with a hammer. This will pop the nut out of the sole. You can also use a large nail.

I drilled a hole more than once and it's kind of big.

The t-nut holds everything in place and the barrel of it becomes the hole. Just be careful that the nut doesn't shift position in the larger hole as you screw it into place.

I drilled eight holes and everything is off!!

Not a problem. Attach the blade with the best holes. The blade won't really be miles off, but next time you go to your sports shop, have them grind down what you don't want. When you change skates and want to transfer the blade, mail me the ground down ones and I'll replace them with another pair and you can try again.