Installing Overdrive on the RBK/CCM shell is fairly straightforward and the only rela concern is that on the small sizes, the blade is a tight fit.
Rivets A and B will have to come out, and the three blue dots indicate where the new Overdrive holes will be. For the smaller sizes, Overdrive is a tight fit and will stick out a bit more than is necessary. This isn't a big problem, and the blade can always be ground down if it is (email me if you are going to do it). For these sizes, position Overdrive as close to the main blade holder as possible (red line).

Here are my new CCM shells (Feb, '10). Front-to-back positioning of Overdrive is the same as all other skates - just set the front of Overdrive to the front of the main blade holder (blue arrow). It doesn't have to be exact, after all, the main blade holder is curved. If you are close, it will be fine.

Note that the bottom of the boot is curved while Overdrive is flat, so the blade will not match the curve of the boot at the front and back of the blade (gold arrows). This isn't a problem, and you don't need to do anything about it. Some goalies have bent the blade to match the boot, but there is no need, it doesn't improve or reduce effectiveness.

The green arrow points to a washer I put in, because the screw was too long inside the boot. I use a forward boot with some modifications, so I have to improvise on the hardware.

The red arrow points to the taller blade (courtesy of Bryden at Toronto Hockey Repair). I've only used them twice so far, but I like them. It doesn't feel odd, and I'm sure I'm getting a better push than a normal blade. The Bauer install page shows my old shells. The blades were really low and were affecting my mobility.

Here's another look at the front-to-back positioning. It's very hard to go wrong here.

Here's my in-out positioning. My shells are size 10, and you can see that the back of the blade is butted right up against the main blade holder (blue arrow). The top of the blade is out a bit (green arrow), and I may push it out just a little bit more, because the plastic of the boot sticks out to get in the way just a little bit at the very end of some moves (red arrow).

 

Here's another look. I'm happy with how the blade bites at the back, but again, I can feel that plastic bubble thing around the toe at the very end of some moves, so either the bubble will come down, or the blade will move out at the toe about 1-2 mm.
And another look.
Next are several pics that a customer sent in of a store install using a screw in the middle hole and two rivets.
Hopefully, these pics will give you a good idea of the proper positioning.
 
 
And finally, to the left is a pic of a store install using three copper rivets.

If you want to see if the blade will work, run a straightedge (a ruler) from your main blade to the edge of Overdrive, like the blue line. This will show you if Overdrive will hit the ice when your foot rolls over. The area 'a' shows how much room is between the blue line and the boot, meaning the boot is not close to getting in the way.

Most goalies want the blade to stick out further when they are down, and the green line shows the angle at which the boot gets in the way of the blade. It's a pretty low angle, one where you have very little leverage to bite with the blade. You can try sticking it out more, but be aware that you will likely get scraping on other moves, and you will be taking power away from the main blade, a big mistake (I'll be explaining this a little better on a revised 'About the Boot' page). At this setting, I have never had any problem with my moves while down - they are simply a matter of practice.

Also, note that one edge of Overdrive does most of the work (red arrow). The lower edge is used when you need Overdrive to help you stop.